FoodiePop

Dish Of The Week - Taste Baguette (Sydney)

2012-02-08T10:45:00.000+11:00

While watching the rivetting three-part SBS documentary Once Upon A Time In Cabramatta, among the malevolently distressing tales of drugs, triad gangs, political assassination, and hardship, the ray of light at the conclusion gave me a warm, fuzzy feeling, and a huge pang of hunger for Vietnamese food. To me, nothing is more representative of Viet cuisine than the simple and tasty banh mi, but outside the inner-west perimeters of Cabramatta, Fairfield, Canley Vale, and Canley Heights, there is a lack of available options for this delicious staple, especially in the CBD. Thankfully in the last few years, the good folks at Taste Baguette has steadily branched out in the city, and there are now Taste Baguettes in Chinatown, Fouveaux Street, Martin Place, next to the main entrance of Myer, and even in the Law Building of Sydney University.

One of their best creations is the Lemongrass Beef Baguette, a tried-and-true combination of baguette, grilled beef, iceberg lettuce, and julienned pickled carrots, radishes, cucumber and herbs. The roll is ultra-fresh, being baked onsite every fifteen minutes during lunchtime, and toastily crispy on the outside while warm and soft on the inside. Cut into halves, the baguette is engorged with a generous serve of the tenderiffic and slightly fatty beef that is redolent of lemongrass, and balanced by the piquant tartness and crunchiness of the various pickled vegetables. The result is a stomach-filling, satisfying, and good value-for-money comestible that would make the Vietnamese refugees proud.

www.tastebaguette.com

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Dish Of The Week - Ms. G's (Potts Point)

2012-02-02T11:31:00.001+11:00

Holy dynamic duos Batman, they've done it again. Not content with delivering Sydney's most interesting "dude food" at Ms. G's, chefs Dan Hong and Jowett Yu have upped the ante again to come up with more deucedly delicious dishes that hit my tastebuds with the force of a Rafa Nadal forehand. So much so that this 'Dish Of The Week' caper has me in a quivering mess, forced to relinquish my sanity in a three-way tie lest I fry my cerebral cortex deciding the winner.

Salads are oh-so-blah right? Nothing to get wet over right? Wrong! The boys' calamari & snow crab salad is a phenomenal concoction of perfect ingredients and flavour balance. Hunks of tender squid give the dish its body while the delicate chunks of snow crab is the star, its unique flavour as fresh as the sea itself and not overpowered by the yuzu and miso dressing. The attendant textures and aromas of coriander, celery, and tiny worms of crispy noodles complete the picture with a flourish worthy of Jackson Pollock's finest.

But as superb as the salad is, Chef Yu's sweet and sour ribs is the personification of astoundingly scrumptious. Aesthetically minimal, the ribs are piled into a bowl and blanketed with basil and coriander, but dig deeper and one finds the ultimate in ovine harmony. Ostensibly braised then deep-fried, the slabs of meat slides off the bone with effortless ease, while the outside has wonderfully crispy skin with notes of smokiness. The idoneous sauce is sticky, reminiscent of tamarind with a touch of chilli, and lip-smackingly moreish. The only way to thoroughly enjoy this dish is to eschew all etiquette and cutlery: use the fingers, gnaw on each rib until all traces of flesh disappear, and bask in the glory.

Surprisingly, the "Breakfast" dessert is equally wonderful, despite its seemingly unappealing name and incongruity to evening mealtimes. Whoever would have thought crunchy cereal coupled with sticky rice would be so good? Clearly the team at Ms. G's did and they are damn right! Throw in the summery coolness of fresh mangoes, the UTI-preventive powers of cranberries, and a scrumptious honey ice cream (though lacking in the "burnt" notes) and you have a dulcifying doozy of a dish that impressed me more than the acclaimed Stoner's Delight 2.0

A triumvirate triumph that has to be our best meal thus far in 2012. Totes.

www.merivale.com/msgs/

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Dish Of The Week - Holy Basil (Sydney)

2012-01-25T14:58:00.000+11:00

While it is often true that simplicity is best, even simplicity needs a makeover every now and then. Fried ice cream is a dessert present in most decent Chinese eateries in Sydney, but its rudimentary nature may lead some punters to thumb their nose at it, despite its inherant yumminess. Luckily the smart folks at Holy Basil have given this beloved dessert a second wind, Laos style.

The fried ice cream fairies at Holy Basil dispenses with the status quo, transforming the typical crumbed and spherical dessert into a triangular pastry creation, and the result is superb. Risibly, the plate in which it comes is larger than the plates our entrees and mains are served in, but that is partly to do with the presentation's footprint. The sizeable triangle of ice cream sits at one end while a trail of caramel sauce loops its way towards a fresh strawberry. The inside is fundamentally ice cream of the vanilla variety, so there is nothing new there, but the light and flaky pastry is subtle and dampens the overall sweetness. I still prefer the tried-and-tested fried ice cream with its cookie-like coating, but props to Holy Basil for thinking outside the, erm, sphere.

One minor quibble however was the consistency. We ordered one each and one was more neatly presented than the other, but the the neater version's ice cream melted much more quickly.

The Holy Basil fried ice cream may be the piece de resistance, but a few of Holy Basil's savoury dishes are also worth a mention. The Gang Ped Yang (roast duck red curry) is richly creamish and moreish (especially with steamed rice), while the less-Laos-like but ubiquitous Salt 'n' Pepper Calamari is superbly crunchy and nicely balanced. Just be sure to save room for the dessert.

www.holybasil.com.au

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Dish Of The Week - Duke Bistro (Darlinghurst)

2012-01-19T08:23:00.000+11:00

Char siu (or barbecued pork to those not conversant in Chinese) is verily one of the epicurean world's great treasures. Its versatility as a comestible is unquestionable, being equally adept in combination with rice, noodles or bread. In fact, according to CNNGo readers, this ubiquitous Asian staple was recently voted in the World's 50 Most Delicious Foods list, coming in at a respectable Number 28. Therefore, almost everyone has at some point consumed this delicious porcine dish, which is both a godsend and a curse with its uniqueness dulled by its increased availability. From Chinatowns the world over and beyond, char siu is universally consistent in texture, taste, and look, which can be boring after having eaten it a million times. Luckily, the bright young chefs at Darlinghurst's Duke Bistro has put their minds and skills to the test with a reinventive tweaking of this long-time favourite.

Using pork neck, the char siu at Duke is supremely succulent, springy, and flavoursome, with not a dry morsel in sight. While the serve is not huge for $22, there are still four generous chunks of pork sufficient to share between two. The contrast of the snappily crunchy gai lan and a Kermit-green garlic shoot puree with sprinkles of black sesame salt elevates the dish beyond the tired traditional offerings. Even though we still find the similarly adventurous Ms. G's to be our 'dude food' destination of choice, this dish is drool-worthy, a must-order, and worthy of its dukedom. Sorry Miss Piggy, even Kermie can't save you this time.

www.dukebistro.com.au

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Dish Of The Week - Black by Ezard (The Star, Pyrmont)

2012-01-10T17:08:00.001+11:00

Ever fancied having breakfast for dinner? Not me (unless you count an occasional bowl of Crunchy Nut Clusters in front of the TV at 7p.m.), but with the amount of cafes in Sydney offering an all-day breakfast, there must be a market out there. Somewhere. And if you're after something more fancy than ham and eggs on toast, then the Organic Farm Egg at Black by Ezard might just be for you.

Masquerading as an entree, it's much fancier than your run-of-the-mill brekkie dish, and for $34 (now $36 I am told) it has to be. So instead of just an egg, you get an organic farm egg; crispy potato and cream instead of hash browns; truffles instead of mushrooms; and iberico ham instead of ordinary ham. Each component is a Rolls Royce version, assembled into a cohesive plate of food and presented in a fancy-schmancy manner.

Despite the simplicity there is much to love, owing to the high quality of the components and the cooking, from the perfect ooziness of the egg yolk, to the rich saltiness of the ham, to the earthy redolence of the truffle. Disinterring the egg hidden beneath the tumbleweed of potato and herb salad gives a sense of satisfaction, and the tried-and-tested flavour combinations work a treat as expected.

Other dishes I had at Black were disappointingly fussy and middle-of-the-road, but this was texturally and flavourfully fun and moves like Jagger.

http://www.star.com.au/dine/signature-dining/black.html

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Dish Of The Week - Bau Truong (Marrickville)

2012-01-04T15:06:00.000+11:00

When it comes to food-related illnesses, nothing is worse than FLAPS*. Never heard of FLAPS? Neither had I, until I came to the realisation that I am a chronic "sufferer" of Foolishly Lusting After Pork-chop Syndrome, an affliction that has befallen a certain Homer Jay Simpson among others. It was not until I had ordered pork chops for the ninety-ninth time that I realised I had a problem. A swine of a problem. Each time perusing an eatery's menu, the words 'pork' and 'chop' invariably leapt off the page and burrowed their way into my brain's frontal and temporal lobes, so that the only words I am able to utter are "pork chops". Alas, there is no remedy for this condition, but fortunately, there was no need when I visited the nascent Vietnamese noshery Bau Truong in Marrickville for my last dining out experience of 2011.

Being a lifelong sufferer of FLAPS, I have tasted innumerable variations of this porcine dish, but my favourite is always the simple deep-fried version favoured by the Chinese. The Bau Truong iteration is of the grilled variety, so I was slightly hesitant because many a time have I had overly-dry and tough-as-shoe-leather grilled pork chops, but my reservations were totally unfounded here.

Tender, succulent, moist, scrumptious, smoky, and naughty, but enough about me. The chops are cooked as well as can be, showcasing the pig's flavour to its maximum whilst lovingly spiced with a hint of lemongrass. The tapas-style $12 serving is admittedly small, but each piece is so downright moreish that all is forgiven (and there is a main-sized serving). The adjuvant side of pickled carrot and cucumber adds an alluring tartness that enhances the chops even more. So good is this dish that it rivals the less salubrious deep-fried versions and deserves to be top of the class.

Thanks to Bau Truong, I have never been prouder of admitting to having FLAPS.

*Not a real disease

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Dish Of The Week - Etch (Sydney)

2011-12-31T12:02:00.001+11:00

Oh Etch, how could I have wronged you so? How could I have cheated on you when you have been so kind and generous to me? I should never have doubted you. The lure of the new and untried was too difficult to resist whenever I was in the Circulay Quay area, but now I've learnt my lesson. Totes.

The rabbit and chicken terrine entree may not be thrillingly presented, but boy are the flavours and textures a glorious triumph in combination. Warm and well seasoned, the tender meat's flavours are enhanced by the sweetness of the cubes and spheres of picked honeydew, while crispy pancetta crumbs and Dijon emulsion give supplementary and opposing textures. Terrines don't normally excite me, but this one rocks harder than The Foo Fighters.

More complex but equally arresting, the lamb main is a busy plate of contrasting colours and textures, a trademark of Etch's mains. Well-cooked and meltingly tender tranches of rump at one end and a log of belly crumbed and deep-fried at the other, the rump is subtly delicious while the belly is intensely flavoursome of lamb. A garden of broad beans and salad leaves are a respite from the meat, but a lack of detectable mintiness was disappointing, although not enough to detract from the overall plate.

Sorry Aria. Sorry Opera Kitchen. Sorry Cafe Sydney. Sorry The Bridge Room. You promise and deliver much but Etch will always be my numero uno baby.

www.etchdining.com

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Happy New Year everybody!

Christmas Music - Glee - Let It Snow

2011-12-25T06:54:00.000+11:00

Glee - Let It Snow

Oh the weather outside is frightful

But the fire is so delightful

And since we've no place to go

Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!

It doesn't show signs of stopping

And I've bought some corn for popping

The lights are turned way down low

Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!

When we finally kiss goodnight

How I'll hate going out in the storm

But if you'll really hold me tight

All the way home I'll be warm!

The fire is slowly dying

And my dear, we're still good-bying

But as long as you love me so

Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!

Christmas Music - David Hobson - The Holy City

2011-12-24T04:30:00.000+11:00

David Hobson - The Holy City

Last night I lay asleeping

There came a dream so fair

I stood in old Jerusalem

Beside the temple there

I heard the children singing

And ever as they sang

Methought the voice of Angels

From Heaven in answer rang

"Jerusalem, Jerusalem!

Lift up your gates and sing,

Hosanna in the highest

Hosanna to your King!"

And then methought my dream was chang'd

The streets no longer rang

Hush'd were the glad Hosannas

The little children sang

The sun grew dark with mystery

The morn was cold and chill

As the shadow of a cross arose

Upon a lonely hill

"Jerusalem, Jerusalem!

Hark! How the Angels sing

Hosanna in the highest

Hosanna to your King!"

And once again the scene was chang'd

New earth there seem'd to be

I saw the Holy City

Beside the tideless sea

The light of God was on its streets

The gates were open wide

And all who would might enter

And no one was denied

No need of moon or stars by night

Or sun to shine by day

It was the new Jerusalem

That would not pass away

"Jerusalem! Jerusalem

Sing for the night is o'er

Hosanna in the highest

Hosanna for evermore!"

Christmas Music - David Phelps - O Holy Night

2011-12-23T06:04:00.000+11:00

David Phelps - O Holy Night

O Holy night, the stars are brightly shining

It is the night of our dear Savior's birth

Long lay the world in sin and error pining

Till He appeared and the soul felt its worth

A thrill of hope, the weary world rejoices

For yonder breaks a new and glorious morn

Fall on your knees

O hear the angel voices

O night divine!

O night when Christ was born

O night divine!

O night, O night divine!

Truly He taught us to love one another
His law is love and His gospel is peace
Chains shall He break for the slave is our brother
And in His name all oppression shall cease
Sweet hymns of joy in grateful chorus raise we
Let all within us praise His holy name

Fall on your knees

O hear the angel voices

O night divine!

O night when Christ was born

O night divine!

O night, O night divine!

Christmas Music - Mariah Carey - All I Want For Christmas Is You

2011-12-22T04:31:00.000+11:00

Mariah Carey - All I Want For Christmas Is You

I don't want a lot for Christmas

There's just one thing I need

I don't care about the presents

Underneath the Christmas tree

I just want you for my own

More than you could ever know

Make my wish come true

All I want for Christmas is .... you

I don't want a lot for Christmas

There's just one thing I need

I don't care about the presents

Underneath the Christmas tree

I don't need to hang my stocking

There upon the fireplace

Santa Claus won't make me happy

With a toy on Christmas day

I just want you for my own

More than you could ever know

Make my wish come true

All I want for Christmas is you

You baby ....

I won't ask for much this Christmas

I don't even wish for snow

I'm just gonna keep on waiting

Underneath the mistletoe

I won't make a list and send it

To the North Pole for Saint Nick

I won't even stay awake to

Hear those magic reindeers click

'Cause I just want you here tonight

Holding on to me so tight

What more can I do?

Baby all I want for Christmas is you

Ooh baby

All the lights are shining

So brightly everywhere

And the sound of children's

Laughter fills the air

And everyone is singing

I hear those sleigh bells ringing

Santa won't you bring me the one I really need

Won't you please bring my baby to me ....

Oh I don't want a lot for Christmas

This is all I'm asking for

I just want to see my baby

Standing right outside my door

Oh I just want you for my own

More than you could ever know

Make my wish come true

Baby all I want for Christmas is .... you

All I want for Christmas is you .... baby ....

Christmas Music - Charice - My Grown-Up Christmas List

2011-12-21T04:36:00.000+11:00

Charice - My Grown-Up Christmas List

Do you remember me?

I sat upon your knee

I wrote to you

With childhood fantasies

Well, I'm all grown up now

And still need help somehow

I'm not a child

But my heart still can dream

So here's my lifelong wish

My grown-up christmas list

Not for myself

But for a world in need

No more lives torn apart

That wars would never start

And time would heal all hearts

And everyone would have a friend

And right would always win

And love would never end

This is my grown-up christmas list

As children we believed

The grandest sight to see

Was something lovely

Wrapped beneath our tree

Well heaven only knows

That packages and bows

Can never heal

A hurting human soul

No more lives torn apart

That wars would never start

And time would heal all hearts

And everyone would have a friend

And right would always win

And love would never end

This is my grown-up christmas list

What is this illusion called the innocence of youth

Maybe only in our blind belief can we ever find the truth

(there'd be)

No more lives torn apart

That wars would never start

And time would heal all hearts

And everyone would have a friend

And right would always win

And love would never end, oh

This is my grown-up christmas list

This is my only lifelong wish

This is my grown-up christmas list

Christmas Music - Clay Aiken - Don't Save It All For Christmas Day

2011-12-20T07:16:00.000+11:00

Clay Aiken - Don't Save It All For Christmas Day

Don't get so busy that you miss

Giving just a little kiss

To the ones you love

And don't even wait a little while

To give them a little smile

A little is enough

How many people are crying?

Some people are dying ....

How many people are asking for love?

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

To give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

But love lives on

If you give on

Love ....

How could you wait another minute?

A hug is warmer when you're in it

Oh baby that's a fact

And saying "I love you" is always better

Seasons, reasons, they don't matter

So don't hold back

How many people in this world?

So needful in this world

How many people are praying for love?

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

To give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

But love lives on

If you give on

Give love ....

Let all the children know

Everywhere that they go

Their whole life long

Let them know love

Ohhhhh

Yeah, and give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

To give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

Christmas Music - 98 Degrees - Christmas Wish

2011-12-19T08:35:00.000+11:00

98 Degrees - Christmas Wish

Christmas ain't the same ....

(Oh, girl)

Christmas ain't the same without you ....

Waiting for the day I see you again

It's Christmas night

I'm by the fireside

Wishing that you and I

Could share our love one last time

And baby, I need you near me

Right here with me for eternity (oh oh)

Exchanging gifts of warmth and tenderness

Holding you close is my Christmas wish

Chorus:

Christmas ain't the same without you

It just doesn't feel like it used to

Waiting for the day I'll see you again ('til I see you)

I hold my breath and pray to the stars for you 'til then

Baby I, made some mistakes that I

Really regret inside (why can't we get one last chance?)

Aww .... I loved you girl

With all of my heart

Right from the start

Thought we'd never part (oh no)

Remembering your touch and your eternal bliss

That is my only Christmas wish

Chorus (2x)

(Oh no no no)

I hold my breath and pray to the stars for you 'til then

(Oh no!)

Christmas ain't the same without you ....

The same ....

Chorus (2x)

Music Friday - Thompson Square - Glass

2011-12-16T08:27:00.000+11:00

Thompson Square - Glass

Trying to live and love

With a heart that can't be broken

Is like trying to see the light with eyes that can't be opened

Yeah, we both carry baggage

We picked up on our way, so if you love me do it gently

And I will do the same

We may shine, we may shatter

We may be picking up the pieces here on after

We are fragile, we are human

We are shaped by the light we let through us

We break fast, 'cause we are glass

'Cause we are glass

I'll let you look inside me, through the stains and through the cracks

And in the darkness of this moment

You see the good and bad

But try not to judge me, 'cause we've walked down different paths

But it brought us here together, so I won't take that back

We may shine, we may shatter

We may be picking up the pieces here on after

We are fragile, we are human

We are shaped by the light we let through us

We break fast, 'cause we are glass

We might be oil and water, this could be a big mistake

We might burn like gasoline and fire

It's a chance we'll have to take

We may shine, we may shatter

We may be picking up the pieces here on after

We are fragile, we are human

And we are shaped by the light we let through us

We break fast, cause we are glass

We are glass

Restaurant Review - Assembly (Sydney)

2011-12-13T04:36:00.001+11:00

With the preponderance of bars almost at saturation point in Sydney, it takes a point of difference to stand out from the increasingly packed crowd. So what has the nascent Assembly done to differentiate itself? Serve what is possibly Sydney's most expensive and overpriced chips, that's what.

Assembly - the name of which evokes memories of my primary school days - is a new-ish bar in the CBD's Regent Place, a barely sustainable precinct buttressed only by the presence of Chefs Gallery, a Gloria Jeans, and three of chef Kimitaka Azuma's branded eateries (Azuma Kushiyaki, Azuma Cafe, and Ton Ton). All are on the George Street level of Regent Place; descend the escalator into the lower level (opening onto Kent Street) and you have an unoccupied dead space which has been a dismal commercial failure ever since it opened a few years ago. But now the surprise appearance of a cocktail bar looks set to jumpstart this section of Regent Place, as long as the drinks and food are good and people can actually find the place.

Aesthetically, Assembly resembles the prototypical 2011 bar with its tired industrial chic look of bare walls, bare floors, and exposed pipes and beams. It is about as predictable as a Phil Hughes dismissal involving Chris Martin and Martin Guptill (apologies to those who do not have a clue what he's talking about - Ed). Food-wise, it's the de rigueur tapas or 'share' plates which are ideal in this happy-hour environment, but alongside the predictable (pork belly, calamari, scallops, hot dogs, etcetera.), there are more interesting fare, such as a wild mushroom and lentil hot pot, sweet potato couscous, and provolone peppers croquettes. Apart from the savouries, there is also one dessert on the single-page menu - a warm chocolate fondant + coconut gooey. Unfortunately, neither the hotdogs nor the choc fondant were available on our visit, which was inexcusable since there are four types of hotdogs and just one dessert on the menu.

The share plates we did order came out fairly quickly, and the quality was mixed. The calamari fritti were decent, with an average batter, a few rubbery pieces here and there, and a dipping sauce with a dose of spiciness but not much character.

The Assembly's fries were equally average, some steak-cut chips cooked decently but egregiously undermined by a cheese and truffle sauce that had the consistency of instant cement. So much so that it could not be used as a dipping sauce, but rather as a spread. The sauce tasted of truffle rather than cheese, and as Charlie & Co.'s parmesan and truffle fries have shown, this can be a delightfully awesome combination. Alas, this version does not even come close, and to charge $13 for such an underwhelming product deserves three strikes with the cane. Even a three-hatted fine diner such as Est. only charges $10 for their chips, while the Charlie & Co.'s superb fries are only $10 at the Opera Kitchen. In addition, my question regarding the truffle sauce's texture was quickly directed to the kitchen but the answer was not delivered immediately. The waitress lingered for about five minutes around the bar after emerging from the kitchen before I had to ask for the chef's reply.

Ignoring the forgettable fries, the pork belly slider also came as a shock, as it was merely a sandwich. I wondered if they had simply exhausted supplies of the mini burger buns but the unavailability of the hotdogs may have been a fair portent. Bun malfunction aside, the pork belly was delicious and the crackling golden and wonderfully crunchy, with the saltiness complemented nicely by sweet pickled red cabbage.

Assembly undoubtedly has potential with a menu of a slightly different bent, but it is a work in progress. Overpriced fries, unavailability of certain items, and amateurish service marred our first experience. Like the creepy decapitated mannequins overlooking the eating and drinking area, Assembly is similarly headless and a little lost. Its slightly difficult location can be overcome with fantastic, affordable, and quirky food, but at the moment, it flunks the test.

The good: pork belly in the 'slider' was moreish; interesting and quirky menu of share plates

The bad: location in Regent Place; unflattering service; unavailability of certain menu items; pork belly slider was more pork belly sandwich; no toilets

What the?: $13 fries is delusional

www.assemblybar.com.au

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Music Friday - Roxette - Listen To Your Heart

2011-12-09T08:40:00.000+11:00

Roxette - Listen To Your Heart

I know there's something in the wake of your smile

I get a notion from the look in your eyes, yeah

You've built a love but that love falls apart

Your little piece of heaven turns too dark

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

Sometimes you wonder if this fight is worthwhile

The precious moments are all lost in the tide, yeah

They're swept away and nothing is what it seems

The feeling of belonging to your dreams

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

And there are voices

That want to be heard

So much to mention

But you can't find the words

The scent of magic

The beauty that's been

When love was wilder than the wind

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

Restaurant Review - Jamie's Italian (Sydney)

2011-12-06T04:40:00.000+11:00

Holy margherita pizza Mario, look at the queues! Sydney loves nothing more than a celebrity chef's eatery, and when that chef is ubiquitous "media personality" Jamie Oliver, the interest is magnified ten-fold.

It did not take long for Jamie's Italian in Sydney CBD's Pitt Street to pique the palates of the Harbour City, and having been open for only a short while, the word is out: no reservations. And the fans have come out in force, whether it is for lunch or for dinner, eager to taste his pukka tucker.

The industrial chic interior (read grey concrete walls, graffiti, and moody lighting) is long and spacious, but the tables fill up fast. Fridays are normally ripe for boozy long lunches, and this Friday was no exception; within half an hour of opening at 11.30a.m., the place was packed with city workers.

The food is Italian (duh) and the menu comprises a raft of classic favourites (prawn lunguine, risotto Milanese, veal Saltimbocca, etcetera) and some odd intruders (flash-cooked greens?). The menu is also cumbersomely and physically large, and there are surfeit choices that require a lot of perusing.

An order of spaghetti bolognese (entree size), smoky scarmoza arancini, funky chips, and un-Italian flash-cooked greens arrived in a canter, barely ten minutes after ordering. The bolognese was fairly pukka, but the neat addition of some crunchy breadcrumbs varied the texture and improved the otherwise pedestrian dish. The arancini was crackingly crispy on the outside, but the absence of smokiness and its ham-fisted presentation were spoilers; unaccompanied by plates, the best way to eat them were to stab with a fork and bite, hardly ideal. The funky chips were plain unfunky, and uncrunchy; handcut chips are great if they are as good as frozen chips, but these were not, while scattered slices of fresh garlic were not worth the trouble. Lastly, the strange side dish of flash-cooked greens were simply dreadful: barely a soupcon of the advertised garlic and chilli, super-bland, and worst of all, watery. Wet cardboard would have been more tasty.

Thankfully, the Ultimate Brownie saved the day, despite its dubious authenticity. Lacking the richness and density of a classic brownie, this was cakey and more chocolate pudding/fondant-like: moist, sweet, and possessing a crispy top. Chunks of amaretto-soaked raspberries added tartness to the deliciousness, complemented by a scoop of generic but satisfying vanilla ice cream. Definitely the best dish of an otherwise disappointing lunch.

Jamie's Italian somehow missed the beat on this occasion. The service was capable and friendly, but it was almost too efficient in delivery speed. The noise levels were raucously high, and guaranteed to be for the majority of times because of the eatery's popularity. Where it fell down most though was in the food. Yes, it is reasonably inexpensive compared to equivalent places in the centre of Sydney, but it was more glorified fast food Italian than a noshery bearing the name of one of the world's best known chefs. In my world, big names mean little, and when the food is this sloppily executed, they mean even less.

The good: delicious "brownie"; great arancini (except for the awkward presentation); fast and friendly service; moderately inexpensive

The bad: most of the dishes were average, and the flash-cooked greens were horrendous; noise levels high; lengthy queues for a table unless one is early; cumbersome menu

What the?: charging $7 for wet cardboard (aka flash-cooked greens) is an outrage

www.jamieskitchen.com.au

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Music Friday - Eva Avila - I'm Sorry

2011-12-02T15:09:00.000+11:00

Eva Avila - I'm Sorry

If I could turn to you

You know I'm dying to

The night could turn to day

But all the days just seem so long

So where did I go wrong?

There's more I have to say

I made a mistake, I'm human you know

What would it take?

I know I've got no more chances oh

I'm on my knees, I'm sorry

I wallow in pain, I swallow my pride

I swallow the sea of tears

You cried for me .... I'm sorry

Last night I was asleep

And you were next to me

I saw your tender smile

But oh, I opened up my eyes

And in this bed of lies

I felt my own heart breaking

I made a mistake, I'm human you know

What would it take?

I know I've got no more chances oh

I'm on my knees, I'm sorry

I wallow in pain, I swallow my pride

I swallow the sea of tears

You cried for me .... I'm sorry

Always on my mind

A million reasons why

I can't believe your love has passed me by

I made a mistake, I'm human you know

What would it take?

I know I've got no more chances oh

I'm on my knees, I'm sorry oh

I wallow in pain, I swallow my pride

I swallow the sea of tears

That you cried for me .... I'm sorry

I'm sorry

Restaurant Review - Momofuku Seiobo (The Star, Pyrmont)

2011-11-30T04:37:00.001+11:00

David Chang likes a challenge.

The gung-ho American culinary virtuoso enjoys challenging himself, his staff, and his diners, much to the joy or chagrin of everyone. Every foodie knows his story and every man and his tastebuds wants a slice of the Momofuku pie, but his restaurants have been hitherto a strictly New York affair, until now. Chang has rolled the dice with his first non-Big-Apple venture, and his gambit has landed him outside his comfort zone at - appropriately enough - a casino, and Sydney is the lucky recipient. The newly rebranded (and still refurbishing) The Star has attracted a coterie of big chef names to its redevelopment, but the brightest star (pun intended) in the food constellation is clearly Chang and his Momofuku brand. It has been barely open a month and it has already been called the "new" Tetsuya's, Sydney's longstanding fine-dining champion of Asian-French cuisine. Let's take the challenge at Momofuku Seiobo.

Challenge One - The Reservation System

Even before one gets a whiff of the much tauted food, the biggest hurdle begins with the dreaded reservation system. Momofuku Seiobo's online-only reservation system may be equitable in Chang's eyes, but is draconian and limiting in almost everyone else's.

Firstly, no internet-capable device means no possibility of a reservation. Sure, it's 2011, but not everyone has internet access. Then again, those are probably not the people who would dine at Momofuku anyway. But to not have a listed phone number (even on the website or business card) is beyond the pale. What next? Reservations by mental telepathy?

Secondly, one must be registered to be able to make a reservation.

Thirdly, the reservation lottery starts at 10a.m. daily and ends at midnight. Considering reservations for the 42-seater go faster than Speedy Gonzales on crack, the fourteen-hour window is redundant. In fact, I estimate one has roughly a second to secure a reservation once it opens at 10a.m. The only logic to having such a large window is in the event of a cancellation, so one could be lucky and happen across a vacancy later in the day, but with spots as rare as a Ricky Ponting century, that is unlikely.

Fourthly, reservations can only be procured for one, two, or four persons, so tough titties if one wants to dine with a number of others outside those limited configurations.

Fifthly, there is a fifthly? Yes indeedy. Reservations taken on a particular day are for the day exactly ten days ahead, so if one placed a reservation on a Sunday, it would be for a Tuesday for example. Ugh.

In summary, this very limited system - while not as bad as that for The Fat Duck in England or for the former El Bulli in Spain - is none the less challenging to the point of utter despair and frustration. So if one manages to snag a reservation, hold that golden ticket close to the chest, or sell it on Ebay. Totes.

Challenge Two - The Location

The casino formerly known as Star City has long been an afterthought in the Sydney restaurant scene, and the previous jewel in its crown (Astral) has moved on. Star City was a garish and noisy monstrosity not conducive to fine dining, but the change has boosted its appeal with a dedicated section of Level G devoted to food offerings, both low- and high-end. Momofuku is away from the main food court area (dubbed Cafe Court) in a neat position next to the street, directly opposite Adriano Zumbo Patissier. Parking is still an expensive exercise though, with a charge of $20 for weekday evenings and $25 for weekend evenings.

Challenge Three - The Hours

Only dinner is available at Seiobo, Mondays to Saturdays, and the seating times are restricted to 7p.m., 7.30p.m., and 8p.m. The hours are staggered to enable the kitchen to serve food in a timely manner, but a 6p.m. or 6.30p.m. option would have been welcome. The three seating times means there is a limit to the number of diners that can be served in a night (we estimated 42), because the length of the degustation does not allow for turnover diners.

Challenge Four - The Seating

Reservations for one or two people will gift a position at the coveted chef's-table-like bench, where one is privy to (almost) every kitchen machination, whether it be steaming the pork buns, filleting the fish, saucing a dish, or plating a dessert. Each move made by the kitchen is open to curious and wandering eyes, and this can be an enjoyable or awkward experience depending on one's disposition. The kitchen staff preparing the food are also responsible for serving the food, so any questions relating to the food, preparation, and their minutiae can be answered immediately. I enjoyed this interactive side as there was always something happening to pique my interest (certain chefs wearing disposable gloves while others did not, some shelf space above the kitchen being empty, the tasting of sauces by the chefs, etcetera), and this made the time go quickly.

For reservations of four however, there are standard tables to accommodate quartets, but these are away from the kitchen. These tables also suffer from dimmer lighting as opposed to the bench's downlighting, but enjoy the advantage of normal dining chairs instead of uncomfortable bar stools. My convive found he was cramping sitting on a bar stool for two-and-a-half hours.

Challenge Five - The Food and Menu

A degustation comprising fifteen courses is not for the faint-hearted or for the unhungry, but it is spread evenly over two to two-and-a-half hours. There is no pre-meal menu, and each dish is supposedly determined on the morning of each day and can change daily subject to produce variations and availability.

Our degustation's progression was in this order: snacks, pork, kingfish, marron, beef, eel, crab, egg, pasta, blue eye, lamb, pecorino, wattle seed, miso, and pork again as the final course; unconventional but something to be expected from Chang. The order of the food vacillates with no discernible pattern, whereas most degustations normally follow a lightest to heaviest order where savoury dishes are concerned, with cold and/or vegetable dishes to start and meaty hot dishes to finish. Here, we got pork as a second course and egg and pasta courses (eighth and ninth respectively) sandwiched between the mud crab and blue eye.

The first course of "snacks" introduced us immediately to the whimsy and creativity of the kitchen, with a quartet of differing textures, colours, and flavours. Crunchy, crispy, gooey, and gluey, not every item appealed, but we applauded the effort and boldness. The smoked potato was the star, a tube of crispy potato shell encasing a delicately smooth potato mash which exploded in the mouth.

Course number two of the "steamed pork bun" is the most talked and twittered about dish in Chang's repertoire, and while great it falls short of amazing. The pork belly is beautifully tender but it owes its lofty status to the phenomenal bun, which is a revelation in doughy softness. The texture is difficult to describe but it is like a light, pliable duvet folded over the pork. Flavoured with hoisin sauce, it is subtly balanced towards the sweet side but a bottle of sriracha chilli sauce is there for an extra dimension.

Courses three and four of the "kingfish" and "white asparagus" did not leave much impression on us, with the traces of blood orange on the kingfish too subtle, while the marron served with the white asparagus had a wonderfully rich flavour but little else. Kudos to the kitchen for replacing the white asparaguses on K's plate with witlof because of his dislike for all things asparagus (including the resulting pungent urine post-ingestion).

Course number five - "beef" - was a bowl with diced cubes of beef hidden beneath a lily pad of overlapping tranches of radish. Watching the painstakingly tedious task of creating the radish lily pad in front of our eyes made it heartbreaking when we were told to mix the beef and radishes together before eating. The nice textural contrast between the tender beef and crunchy radishes was undermined by the unusual fermented black bean flavour and the visual repellant of the oil-slick-like sauce.

Course six was one of my favourites, the "smoked eel" being wonderfully nuanced in its smokiness and flavour, while the dabs of pink grapefruit lent a tangy moreishness complemented by the earthy chunks of slightly charred artichokes and a cup of dashi.

Course number seven of the "mud crab" was equally stunning in execution and was the most flavoursome dish of the degustation. The crab meat was superbly cooked to a juicy tenderness and its freshness accented by a richly intense jus of butter and pepper. The Yorkshire pudding was moist and light with a batter-y crust ideal for soaking up the jus.

The "egg" was the eighth course and its lightness was a brief respite from the flavour explosions of the previous three, but the custard did little to win us over. It was dainty and velvety and that was about it.

Course number nine however was a simple yet spectacular winner, probably because we were craving a substantial carbohydrate hit. Folds of "hand torn pasta" were silkily smooth and satisfying with goat cheese, mint, a strong hint of chilli, and crispy basil leaves, while the petite cherry tomatoes burst with an acidity and vibrancy that complemented the dish extremely well.

The final two savoury courses were the more traditional one-two punch of the sea and land proteins. Course ten was the "blue eye" paired with wakame, fennel, and squid ink. Wakame is usually a boring, watery mess found in Japanese or Korean soups but this was a textural and flavoursome delight that made us forget about the slightly overcooked fish.

The eleventh course of "lamb neck" featured the most incredible disc of meat one is likely to consume anywhere. Uber-tender and ambrosial, we were taken aback when told it was cooked in the pan and finished in the oven. As simple as that. Pickled pink turnips were a bit tough and crunchy but added an acidity to the dish, while the daikon puree provided a grainy smoothness. But it was all about the lamb.

Course number twelve was cheese, something neither of us usually order, so this was a significant challenge and one which we failed. Delightful presentation and creativity aside, the salty and pungent hillock of grated "pecorino" was distractingly overpowering, even with a shard of crispy honey lattice and globules of sticky honey licorice scattered amongst the cheese. Definitely one for the cheese lover only.

Number thirteen is the first dessert, a weirdly alluring concoction of malt ice cream surrounded by "wattle seed" meringue and covered by flabelliform pieces of crispy milk. The meringue was sweet and crunchy, while the ice cream was lusciously rich and chocolatey. The crispy milk added a unique snappy texture but tasted of nothing in particular.

The fourteenth course jolts the tastebuds back towards the savoury with a combo of "miso" and mustard. The dominant component of the miso ice cream was slightly overpowering in its lack of sweetness, and when the sugariness came in the form of pickled strawberries and diced fruit, it was mild. Even the rice pudding was more textural than a counterbalance to the cold miso flavour. Such a strange choice to tickle the tastebuds, but the fifteenth and final course showed why this dessert leant towards the savoury spectrum.

Instead of the usual cute selection of chocolates, jellies, or macarons as petit fours, the meal ends with a surprisingly strange flourish of slow roasted pork shoulder with salt and sugar. Those like us with a view of the kitchen already had a portent as the sizeable chunk of devilishly fragrant pork shoulder had been resting on an island bench for some time. The dish is as simple as it sounds: pieces of pulled pork from the shoulder sprinkled with sugar and salt to bring out the aroma and drizzled with pan juices; nothing more, nothing less. Delicious? Yes. As a final dish? Polarising, just the way Chang wants it. And as memorable as it is discussion-worthy.

The fifteen courses were indeed interesting, comprising some incredible dishes and some head-scratchers. With dishes coming at a rate of every eight to ten minutes, there was little time to rest between courses. Each dish is generous enough to get a feel for the ingredients, the chef's skills, and the flavours, but none were heavy enough to disrupt subsequent courses. After the pork shoulder, we were left with a contented feeling of fullness rather than reaching for the Mylanta. There were unusual combinations and flavours which were foreign to us, and that was a challenge worth tackling. $175 for fifteen dishes of genuinely exciting food of this calibre is a bargain, and certainly a meal to remember.

Challenge Six - The Music

Much has been said about the choice of music played at Seiobo, but we found the brouhaha unwarranted. The music was unintrusive during our dinner, in part because the volume was reasonably low and in part because we were transfixed in conversation and by the view of the kitchen's activities. When we did pay attention to the music during the rare dull moments, we noticed the playlist flittered between various musical genres from country to pop to hip-hop. Yes, we were treated to a rousing version of Acca Dacca's TNT, but the buzz in the kitchen and dining room rendered it effete to the point of it being elevator music, so those averse to loud restaurant music need not fear.

Challenge Seven - The Lavatory

The lavatory/toilet/water closet/restroom/bathroom is correct, as there is only one for both diners and the staff. A single toilet for roughly sixty people? Both inadequate and infuriating. And there's no fancy hallway to walk through to the toilet either, as diners must pass through the uninteresting part of the kitchen (viz. storage and dishwashing area) to get there. Once there, the room is typically unprepossessing: dark, lit by a variety of candles, and with rolled white hand towels on a shelf. The toilet while functional is clearly glossed over when it comes to the Momofuku experience.

Challenge Eight - The Service

A fifteen-course degustation over two to two-and-a-half hours requires a dedicated and skilled team of floor staff, and that is what Seiobo has. The amount of cutlery and crockery used during each night is staggering, and the staff steathily and unobtrusively sets up and removes every piece with precision and timing. Within minutes of each course being finished, everything is taken away and replaced, ready for the next course, and every member of the floor team does his or her part; on one occasion during the evening the sommelier-at-large Charles Leong removed our plates and cutlery.

David Chang's first foreign foray has certainly rocked the Sydney epicurean scene. Even before the doors opened, people were clamouring to see what he would come up with, and what he has delivered is a challenge on multiple levels. From the exasperatingly strict reservation system to the size of the degustation to the use of local and often unheralded produce, he has confronted and awoken us from our insular haven with a mighty uppercut. By dropping all pretence and doing as he pleases with Momofuku Seiobo, Chang has pulled out his full deck of cards, shown us a straight flush, then flashed us his Jokers.

The good: fifteen courses of mainly great and exciting food; service efficiency; excellent value compared to some degustations; chef's-table-like bench

The bad: one toilet for the whole restaurant; parking at The Star is expensive; kitchen staff could use more amiability when serving the courses; bar stools are uncomfortable for long periods

What the?: the f**king reservation system

www.momofuku.com

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Music Monday - Leon Jackson - Caledonia

2011-11-28T07:20:00.000+11:00

Leon Jackson - Caledonia

I don't know if you can see

The changes that have come over me?

In these last few days I've been afraid

That I might drift away

So I've been telling old stories, singing songs

That make me think about where I came from

And that's the reason why I seem

So far away today

So let me tell you that I love you

That I think about you all the time

Caledonia you're calling me

Now I'm going home

And if I should become a stranger

You know that it would make me more than sad

Caledonia's been everything I've ever had

Now I have moved and I've kept on moving

Proved the points that I needed on proving

Lost the friends that I needed losing

And found others on the way

And I've kissed the ladies and left them crying

Stolen dreams oh there's no denying

And I've travelled hard with my coattails flying

Somewhere in the wind

Let me tell you that I love you

And I think about you all the time

Caledonia you're calling me

Now I'm going home

And if I should become a stranger

You know that it would make me more than sad

Caledonia you're the best friend I've ever had

So let me tell you that I love you

And I think about you all the time

Caledonia you're calling me

Now I'm going home

And if I should become a stranger

You know that it would make me more than sad

Caledonia's been everything I've ever had

Dish Of The Week - Golden Tower (Bondi Junction)

2011-11-23T09:20:00.001+11:00

My neverending search for Sydney's best deep-fried pork chop rarely deviates from Chinatown, Marrickville, Hurstville, Campsie, or [insert name of Asian-centric suburb], so it was quite the surprise when I happened upon Golden Tower in Bondi Junction.

Located in Westfield's less glamorous of its two food courts (home to McDonald's, KFC, Subway, etcetera), Golden Tower serves a hodge-podge of cuisines from Chinese to Japanese to Malaysian. Its unassuming nature is typified by its food collection system, the prehistoric ticketing kind rather than the buzzer kind. Modern conveniences aside, the prices are commensurate with those of the Eastern Suburbs and are higher than average.

High prices are acceptable if the food is good, and despite initial concerns about the their self-anointed Famous deep-fried pork chop with rice ($13.80), this is a very good version of the ubiquitous dish.

The porcine chop is beautifully fragrant, golden brown, and with a good proportion of juicy and tasty fat at the fringes. The pork is not too greasy, and due to the food court's no-knives policy, the chop is neatly pre-cut into perfect bite-sized segments. Two pieces of slender bone are ideal for gnawing on to extricate the remaining delicious meat, and a hillock of slightly glistening steamed white rice with a still-gooey-yolked fried egg sitting on top are perfect accompaniments. The only disappointing element is the broccoli in place of the standard slices of tomato and cucumber, but broccoli is a "superfood" so no complaints nutrients-wise from me.

A no-frills dish done well and a surprising find in this part of Sydney.

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Music Sunday - Dixie Chicks - Not Ready To Make Nice

2011-11-20T10:06:00.000+11:00

Dixie Chicks - Not Ready To Make Nice

Forgive, sounds good

Forget, I’m not sure I could

They say time heals everything

But I’m still waiting

I’m through with doubt

There’s nothing left for me to figure out

I’ve paid a price

And I’ll keep paying

I’m not ready to make nice

I’m not ready to back down

I’m still mad as hell and

I don’t have time to go round and round and round

It’s too late to make it right

I probably wouldn’t if I could

‘Cause I’m mad as hell

Can’t bring myself to do what it is you think I should

I know you said

Can’t you just get over it

It turned my whole world around

And I kind of like it

I made my bed and I sleep like a baby

With no regrets and I don’t mind sayin’

It’s a sad sad story when a mother will teach her

Daughter that she ought to hate a perfect stranger

And how in the world can the words that I said

Send somebody so over the edge?

That they’d write me a letter

Sayin’ that I better shut up and sing

Or my life will be over

I’m not ready to make nice

I’m not ready to back down

I’m still mad as hell and

I don’t have time to go round and round and round

It’s too late to make it right

I probably wouldn’t if I could

‘Cause I’m mad as hell

Can’t bring myself to do what it is you think I should

I’m not ready to make nice

I’m not ready to back down

I’m still mad as hell and

I don’t have time to go round and round and round

It’s too late to make it right

I probably wouldn’t if I could

‘Cause I’m mad as hell

Can’t bring myself to do what it is you think I should

What it is you think I should

Forgive, sounds good

Forget, I’m not sure I could

They say time heals everything

But I’m still waiting

Music Saturday - Jason Mraz - You And I Both

2011-11-19T08:37:00.000+11:00

Jason Mraz - You And I Both

Was it you who spoke the words that things would happen but not to me?

Oh things are gonna happen naturally

Oh taking your advice I'm looking on the bright side

And balancing the whole thing

But often times those words get tangled up in lines

And the bright lights turn to night

Until the dawn it brings

Another day to sing about the magic that was you and me

'Cause you and I both loved

What you and I spoke of

And others just read of

Others only read of the love, the love that I love

See I'm all about them words

Over numbers, unencumbered numbered words

Hundreds of pages, pages, pages for words

More words then I had ever heard and I feel so alive

'Cause you and I both loved

What you and I spoke of

And others just read of

And if you could see me now,

Oh love, no

You and I, you and I

Not so little you and I anymore, mmm ....

And with this silence brings a moral story

More importantly evolving is the glory of a boy

'Cause you and I both loved

What you and I spoke of

And others just read of

And if you could see me now

Well I'm almost finally out of

I'm finally out of

Finally deedeedeedee

Well I'm almost finally, finally

Well I'm free, oh, I'm free

And it's okay if you have to go away

Oh just remember the telephone works both ways

And if I never ever hear them ring

If nothing else I'll think the bells inside

Have finally found you someone else and that's okay

'Cause I'll remember everything you sang

'Cause you and I both loved what you and I spoke of

And others just read of and if you could see me now

Well then I'm almost finally out of

I'm finally out of, finally, deedeeededede

Well I'm almost finally, finally, out of words

Music Friday - Dannii Minogue - This Is It

2011-11-18T08:54:00.000+11:00

Dannii Minogue - This Is It

This is it

Oh this time I know it's the real thing

I can't explain what I'm feeling

I'm lost for words

I'm in a daze

Stunned and amazed

By your open ways

This is it

Oh this time I know it's the real thing

I can't explain what I'm feeling

I'm lost for words

I'm in a daze

Stunned and amazed

By your open ways

Whoo, you smiled at me

And suddenly

The wheels of love began to turn inside of me

Hey, you said hello

Oh, I felt aglow

Right then and there I knew I'd never let you go

'Cos I know

I know

This is it

Oh this time I know it's the real thing

I can't explain what I'm feeling

I'm lost for words

I'm in a daze

Stunned and amazed

By your open ways

Oh, the touch of you

Is something new

Nobody ever made me feel the way you do

Whoo, it's heavenly

Oh it's ecstasy

The way you make me feel when you make love to me

Oh yeah

Can't you see

This is it

This time I know it's the real thing

and I can't explain what I'm feeling

I'm lost for words

I'm in a daze

Stunned and amazed

By your open ways

This is it

Oh yeah yeah yeah

Oh, the touch of you

Is something new

Nobody ever made me feel the way you do

Let me tell ya, heavenly

it's Ecstasy

Oh, the way you make me feel when you make love to me

This is it

This time I know it's the real thing

I can't explain what I'm feeling

I'm lost for words

I'm in a daze

Stunned and amazed

By your open ways

This is it

Oh This time I know

I can't explain what I'm feeling

Yeah

I'm in a daze

Mmmm

With your open ways

This is it

This time I know it's the real thing

Restaurant Review - Essen (Ultimo/Broadway)

2011-11-17T04:33:00.002+11:00

The eurozone may be teetering on the economic precipice as Italy joins the seven-per-cent club, but when it comes to European dining in Sydney, it is business as usual.

In my experience, European food has always been about the size and the speed, and the bigger and quicker the better.

Una's is a Darlinghurst institution which has served European food to ravenous gourmands since the late sixties, and in 2005 they opened a Broadway/Ultimo offshoot that proved relatively popular with the nearby tertiary student population. A few years ago, the name changed to Essen, but the philosophy of feeding the locals with well-priced generous portions remained. We are here on a busy Saturday night to see whether dropping the iconic Una's name has had an impact on the humble restaurant-cum-beer-cafe.

Situated on Broadway near the Wattle Street end, the location is a little inconspicuous, despite other eateries being in the immediate vicinity. Broadway being a very busy main road, parking can be problematic, but the nearby Broadway Shopping Centre (a five-minute walk) offers free parking for three hours, and nearby Abercrombie Street also offers parking, free or metered depending on time and day.

The restaurant is roomy and decor is reminiscent of a typical European schnitzel house, with tiled floors and plenty of wooden panelling, tables and chairs. The lack of sound-proofing though can be a conversation killer, especially when the dining room is full. Eclectic and kitschy pieces adorn the walls, with everything from a painting to ornamental plates to a ski sparsely dispersed throughout the front room. The main dining area is on street level, while a second upstairs level comprises a function area and the toilets.

The food is typically continental European, with influences ranging from Austria to Germany to Switzerland to Denmark, and the menu, while large, is manageable.

Garlic bread is as cliched and hackneyed an entree as it gets, but when the version at Essen is the hilariously-named Knobli Brot, it was a fun way to begin our European culinary journey.

Thankfully not the generic kind plaguing Italian eateries, food courts, and bistros all over Sydney, these are better than expected. A serving of two slices for $4.50 is a tad overpriced, but these are on the right side of crunchy, while the gruyere adds a tasty cheesiness, even if the smoked paprika is imperceptible to our tastebuds.

There is nothing hackneyed about the Duo Herring und Lachs, a recent addition to the menu, and the presentation was totally unexpected. Both the piscatorial components came as spreads in separate jars, alongside three slices of crusty brown bread. Moderately-sized chunks of just-cooked salmon sat in a jar of dill mayonnaise, while smaller pieces of pickled herring were dispersed in a beetroot and apple puree. Both were delicious, tart, and appetising, but functioned rather poorly as spreads. It was awkward spooning the chunky mixtures onto the bread, in particular the salmon, and it would have been preferable to have slices of bread pre-topped with the fishy duo; plus that would have helped the presentation.

A mixed grill is always a popular option among carnivores, and the Essen's hunter platter for two is a meaty wet dream of duck, pork, venison, and boar. The duck leg had a succulently crispy skin but was sadly dry in parts, while the pork belly - although tasty - was similarly inconsistent and the crackling tough. The three sausages were each distinct, with the spicy paprika-heavy Csabai sausage the standout while the black pudding sausage was too delicate to enable proper cutting. The moreish cabbage roll was meaty and slathered with a thick brown gravy, while the roesti and sauerkraut were good respites from the meats' heaviness. The twin bread dumplings were like stuffing (but not as strongly flavoured) and a touch heavy in concert with the rest of the food. The platter cried out for a sauce to bind everything together, but it is a safe option for the indecisive or those who enjoy a variety of meats; the value is reasonable considering it is almost enough to feed three patrons.

Alas on this night, the hunter's platter came too soon after our entrees were cleared, about ten minutes. With so much food on the platter, the kitchen's overzealousness could have cost them our dessert order. As it was, we did not finish the sausages and one of the bread dumplings in order to fit in dessert.

Equally indulgent and ambitious as the hunter's platter is the dessert tasting platter, a kaleidoscope of Essen's best desserts, or even possibly everything they have on the dessert menu! A creme brulee with the perfect hard caramel top was a good start, while the buttermilk panna cotta was a silkenly smooth delight. A wedge of dark chocolate cake was subtly bitter and lacked moisture, but thankfully mollified by a duo of vanilla and hazelnut ice creams. Two strawberry halves and a spoonful of sour cherries provided nutrients and a tart counter to the sweetness, but the MVP was the chocolate and nutmeg pudding, a gorgeously full-bodied dessert of sweetness, lightness, and moreishness. As subtle as a sledgehammer this dessert platter may be, but worth saving room for its variety and balance.

Essen appears to have seamlessly continued where Una's has left off, providing a taste of European casual dining in busy Broadway. Whereas Una's menu was fairly limited, Essen's is a jaunty backpacking trip through continental Europe, with hearty and generous meals served in a cosy environment by an efficient and eager-to-please team (sometimes overly so). The food is solid, flavours are robust, and while some of the dishes require more care and refinement, there are dishes to intrigue and tantalise. Best of all, diners almost certainly leave fulfilled and with a sense of value-for-money, and in these tough GFC-esque times, that is a feeling well worth engendering.

FoodiePop dined at Essen as a guest of Essen and Krissie of Wasamedia.

The good: big portions; value for money; lively atmosphere; excellent dessert platter; knobli brot; interesting food; friendly and efficient service; bay windows; takeaway and home delivery available (with a limited menu)

The bad: some food can be slightly overdone; hunter's platter for two is a tad dry; toilets are upstairs; dining room can get very noisy; decor is a little strange and haphazard; we received our hunter's platter only ten minutes after our entrees were cleared

What the?: a misleading door on the right hand side of the restaurant which does not open needs a sign to direct diners to the correct entrance, as on numerous occasions people coming from Wattle Street kept trying to gain entrance through this door first

www.essenrestaurant.com.au

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Music Wednesday - Lea Michele - Get It Right

2011-11-16T06:26:00.001+11:00

Lea Michele - Get It Right

What have I done?

I wish I could run

Away from this ship going under

Just trying to help, hurt everyone else

Now I feel the weight of the world is

On my shoulders

What can you do when your good isn't good enough?

When all that you touch tumbles down?

'Cause my best intentions keep making a mess of things

I just want to fix it somehow

But how many times will it take?

Oh, how many times will it take for me?

To get it right

Can I start again with my faith shaken?

'Cause I can't go back and undo this

I just have to stay and face my mistakes

But if I get stronger and wiser

I'll get through this

What can you do when your good isn't good enough?

When all that you touch tumbles down?

'Cause my best intentions keep making a mess of things

I just wanna fix it somehow

But how many times will it take?

Oh, how many times will it take for me?

To get it right

So I throw up my fist

Throw a punch in the air

And accept the truth, that sometimes life isn't fair

Yeah, I'll send down a wish

Yeah, I'll send up a prayer

And finally, someone will see

How much I care

What can you do when your good isn't good enough?

When all that you touch tumbles down?

Oh my best intentions keep making a mess of things

I just wanna fix it somehow

But how many times will it take?

Oh, how many times will it take?

To get it right

Music Tuesday - Dolly Parton - Together You And I

2011-11-15T05:04:00.000+11:00

Dolly Parton - Together You And I

Oooh Oooh. Oooooh Oh.

My love for you is deeper than the depths of any ocean

And as faithful as the stars that grace the night

As constant as the sun making its journey to the heavens

And we'll always be together you and I

Together you and I can stop the rain and make the sun shine

Paint a pretty rainbow brushed with love across the sky

Together you and I belong like a songbird and a song

And we'll always be together you and I

Life with you is sweeter than the fragrance of the flowers

And as happy as the laughter of a child

As peaceful as a river and as lasting as forever

You know we'll always be together you and I

Together you and I can stop the rain and make the sun shine

Paint a pretty rainbow brushed with love across the sky

Together you and I belong like a songbird and a song

And we'll always be together you and I

I'll always be beside or close behind you

Wherever you go you'll always know I'll always find you

Together you and I can stop the rain and make the sun shine

Paint a pretty rainbow brushed with love across the sky

Together you and I belong like a songbird and a song

And we'll always be together you and I

We'll always be together you and I

Forever Together

Together Forever

You and I

(Together you and I)

Forever Together

Together forever you and I will always be

Together you and I

Music Monday - Faye Wong - Eyes On Me

2011-11-14T08:51:00.000+11:00

Faye Wong - Eyes On Me

Whenever sang my songs

On the stage, on my own

Whenever said my words

Wishing they would be heard

I saw you smiling at me

Was it real or just my fantasy?

You'd always be there in the corner

Of this tiny little bar

My last night here for you

Same old songs, just once more

My last night here with you?

Maybe yes, maybe no

I kind of liked it your way

How you shyly placed your eyes on me

Did you ever know

That I had mine on you?

Darling, so there you are

With that look on your face

As if you're never hurt

As if you're never down

Shall I be the one for you

Who pinches you softly but sure?

If frown is shown then

I will know that you are no dreamer

So let me come to you

Close as I want to be

Close enough for me

To feel your heart beating fast

And stay there as I whisper

How I love your peaceful eyes on me

Did you ever know

That I had mine on you?

Darling, so share with me

Your love if you have enough

Your tears if you're holding back

Or pain if that's what it is

How can I let you know

I'm more than the dress and the voice?

Just reach me out then

You will know that you're not dreaming

Darling, so there you are

With that look on your face

As if you're never hurt

As if you're never down

Shall I be the one for you

Who pinches you softly but sure?

If frown is shown then I will know

That you are no dreamer

Music Saturday - Missy Higgins - Ten Days

2011-11-12T06:21:00.002+11:00

Missy Higgins - Ten Days

So we've put an end to it this time

I'm no longer yours and you're no longer mine

You said this hill looks far too steep

I'm not even sure it's me you wanna keep

It's been ten days without you in my reach

And the only time I've touched you is in my sleep

And time has changed nothing at all

You're still the only one that feels like home

I've tried cutting the ropes

And I let you go but you're still the only one that feels like home

You won't talk me into it next time

If I'm going away your heart's coming too

'Cos I miss your hands, I miss your face

When I get back let's disappear without a trace

'Cos it's been ten days without you in my reach

And the only time I've touched you is in my sleep

But time has changed nothing at all

You're still the only one that feels like home

I've tried cutting the ropes

And I let you go but you're still the only one that feels like home

So tell me, did you really think

Oh tell me, did you really think

I had gone when you couldn't see me anymore?

When you couldn't

'Cos baby time has changed nothing at all

You're still the only one that feels like home

I've tried cutting the ropes

And I let you go but you're still the only one that feels like home

You're still the only one that feels like home

You're still the only one I've gotta love

Oh yeah ....

Music Thursday - Kelly Clarkson - My Life Would Suck Without You

2011-11-10T04:39:00.002+11:00

Kelly Clarkson - My Life Would Suck Without You

Guess this means you're sorry

You're standing at my door

Guess this means you take back

All you said before

Like how much you wanted

Anyone but me

Said you'd never come back

But here you are again

Because we belong together now

Forever united here somehow

Yeah you got a piece of me

And honestly

My life would suck without you

Maybe I was stupid for telling you goodbye

Maybe I was wrong for trying to pick a fight

I know that I've got issues

But you're pretty messed up too

Either way I found out

I'm nothing without you

Because we belong together now

Forever united here somehow

Yeah you got a piece of me

And honestly

My life would suck without you

Being with you is so dysfunctional

I really shouldn't miss you

But I can't let you go

Oh Yeah

Because we belong together now

Forever united here somehow

Yeah you got a piece of me

And honestly

My life would suck without you

Music Tuesday - Alesha Dixon - To Love Again

2011-11-08T04:36:00.002+11:00

Alesha Dixon - To Love Again

All this time I felt so lost, lost and needed help

Incomplete, out of reach, alone all by myself

It all becomes so clear, when I see your face

And it’s only when you’re near, I feel I’m safe

So before we take this road

Before you change my mind

And fill my heart with hope

Help me to believe this time

I’ve been torn apart

Desperately trying to find a way back to my heart

So I can love again

Ooh, help me love again. Ooh yeah.

I’m so tired of holding on, so tired of waiting

I need to feel something real, without it breaking

It all becomes so clear, when you touch my hand

And it’s only when you’re near, I know you understand

So before we take this road

Before you change my mind

And fill my heart with hope

Help me to believe this time

I’ve been torn apart

Desperately trying to find a way back to my heart

So I can love again

There's a fire within me, but I don't know where to stop

There's light beginning

There's a dark kind leaving there's a hope I'm feeling now.

Uhhh yes

So before we take this road

Before you change my mind

And fill my heart with hope

Help me to believe this time

I’ve been torn apart

Desperately trying to find a way back to my heart

So I can love again

Uh, yeah

Turn the page to love again

Music Saturday - Parachute - Kiss Me Slowly

2011-11-05T05:08:00.002+11:00

Parachute - Kiss Me Slowly

Stay with me, baby stay with me

Tonight don't leave me alone

Walk with me, come and walk with me

To the edge of all we've ever known

I can see you there with the city lights

Fourteenth floor, pale blue eyes

I can breathe you in

Two shadows standing by the bedroom door

No, I could not want you more than I did right then

As our heads leaned in

Well, I'm not sure what this is gonna be

But with my eyes closed all I see

Is the skyline, through the window

The moon above you and the streets below

Hold my breath as you're moving in

Taste your lips and feel your skin

When the time comes, baby don't run, just kiss me slowly

Stay with me, baby stay with me

Tonight don't leave me alone

She shows me everything she used to know

Picture frames and country roads

When the days were long and the world was small

She stood by as it fell apart

Separate rooms and broken hearts

But I won't be the one to let you go

Oh, I'm not sure what this is gonna be

But with my eyes closed all I see

Is the skyline, through the window

The moon above you and the streets below

Hold my breath as you're moving in

Taste your lips and feel your skin

When the time comes, baby don't run, just kiss me slowly

Don't run away...

And it's hard to love again

When the only way it's been

When the only love you know

Just walked away ....

If it's something that you want

Darling you don't have to run

You don't have to go ....

Just stay with me, baby stay with me

Well, I'm not sure what this is gonna be

But with my eyes closed all I see

Is the skyline, through the window

The moon above you and the streets below (Don't let go)

Hold my breath as you're moving in

Taste your lips and feel your skin

When the time comes, baby don't run, just kiss me slowly

Oh, I'm not sure what this is gonna go

But in this moment all I know

Is the skyline, through the window

The moon above you and the streets below (Baby, don't let go)

Hold my breath as you're moving in

Taste your lips and feel your skin

When the time comes, baby don't run, just kiss me slowly

Music Thursday - Katy Perry - The One That Got Away

2011-11-03T04:46:00.000+11:00

Katy Perry - The One That Got Away

Summer after high school when we first met

We make out in your Mustang to Radiohead

And on my 18th Birthday

We got matching tattoos

Used to steal your parents' liquor

And climb to the roof

Talk about our future like we had a clue

Never planned that one day I'd be losing you

In another life

I would be your girl

We keep all our promises

Be us against the world

In another life

I would make you stay

So I don't have to say

You were the one that got away

The one that got away

I was June and you were my Johnny Cash

Never one without the other we made a pact

Sometimes when I miss you I put those records on

Someone said you had your tattoo removed

Saw you downtown singing the blues

It's time to face the music

I'm no longer your muse

And in another life

I would be your girl

We keep all our promises

Be us against the world

In another life

I would make you stay

So I don't have to say

You were the one that got away

The one that got away

The o-o-o-o-o-one [x3]

The one that got away

All this money can't buy me a time machine (Nooooo)

Can't replace you with a million rings (Nooooo)

I shoulda told you what you meant to me (Woooooow)

'Cause now I pay the price

In another life

I would be your girl

We keep all our promises

Be us against the world

In another life

I would make you stay

So I don't have to say

You were the one that got away

The one that got away

The o-o-o-o-o-one [x3]

In another life

I would make you stay

So I don't have to say

You were the one that got away

The one that got away

Adriano Zumbo Patissier (The Star, Pyrmont)

2011-11-01T04:34:00.003+11:00

The erstwhile Star City Casino's recent transformation into The Star left no stone unturned, but more importantly for the foodies, its renaissance heralded a new beginning for casino eateries in this city. Similar to what the likes of Becasse, Quarter Twenty One, Xanthi, Chat Thai, etcetera have done for the shopping centre at Westfield Sydney, The Star has ruthlessly dispatched almost all of its underwhelming and underperforming nosheries in its revamp, and lured some almighty names to reinvigorate the culinary culture of Sydney's premier casino.

While the megawattage of names such as Korean-American culinary crusader David Chang, Teage Ezard, Stefano Manfredi, Peter Kuruvita, Luke Nguyen, and Chase Kojima provide the fireworks by way of eateries big and small, the star (pardon the pun) for the sweet-tooths comes in the form of dessert doyen Adriano Zumbo, a name well known to Australians from his many appearances on the Australian MasterChef television hit.

With patisseries and cafes in Balmain, Manly, and Rozelle, it was only a matter of time before his creations made its way to a more central locale in Sydney, and The Star is the lucky recipient of his new concept shop, a patisserie/dessert-train hybrid. The patisserie part is apparently a whimsical take on the board game Mouse Trap, but it failed to make that impression on us. 'In Case Of Emergency Break Glass' cabinets affixed to the walls hold the prized macarons, and there are DVDs and cookbooks sitting on the middle island area. Helpful staff come around to take one's order using an electronic ordering device, a much preferable way to that of his patisseries in Balmain and Manly where orders are taken laboriously by counter staff. Once an order is placed, one heads to the counter to pay and collect the sweet goods.

On the two occasions we visited, the dessert-train had not yet opened, but it has now commenced trading, so a third outing in the near future seems assured.

The desserts in The Star's patisserie do not seem to be exclusive, but its longer trading hours (open seven days a week until at least 10p.m.) ensures one can procure a Zumbo creation practically any time of the day, a welcome advantage.

Apart from the dessert-train, there is no separate seating area for patisserie customers, but there is usually ample room in the adjacent food court (at least there was when we were there). One major disadvantage of doing this is the lack of suitable cutlery, as they only supply plastic forks and spoons. As some of the desserts are difficult and fiddly to consume at the best of times, this lack of foresight is a major blunder.

On our first visit, the unavailability of proper cutlery caused immediate grief, especially when eating the Water My Melons. This ersatz but authentic looking sphere is comprised of orange creameaux, watermelon jelly, compressed watermelon, and yogurt creme legere. The "watermelon" shell is a solid piece of chocolate and impossible to break with a plastic fork or spoon. Frustrated, we ended up lifting the top half off and biting it. Flavour-wise, it was a good dessert that was not cloying, and the presence of real watermelon helped its authenticity.

The Eu-genius was another difficult dessert to tackle. The layers of chocolate crunch, coconut jelly, violet gel, and blackcurrant creme legere splatted outwards in an unruly manner when we tried to cut through the top caramelised puff pastry. It may be fun and tasty but it created an unwieldy mess that was difficult to eat elegantly.

On our second visit the dessert range was different, with both the Water My Melons and Eu-genius missing in action. The oddly-named Ping Pong Show - comprised of coconut rice pudding bavaroise, lime jelly, chilli brulee, and lime dacquoise - was an impressive balance of tart and sweet. The texture of the dacquoise was smooth and creamy with the flavour of coconut rice pudding evident in the layers, while the chilli aftertaste was a surprising touch that lingered after the last bite.

The Cherry Cherry is an innocuous-looking block, but inside lurks a complex composition of pate sable, cherry compote, coconut moisture, and milk chocolate. It wouldn't be dubbed Cherry Cherry without it tasting of cherry, and so the dominant flavour shines through with its slight acidity. Combined with the sweetness of the milk chocolate and biscuity sable, it was a Cherry Ripe on steroids.

As far as the macarons are concerned, they are of the usual high standards with the crispy shells and contrasting gooey centres. Pretentiously called 'zumborons', the flavours range from slightly odd (hot chocolate) to deranged (sweet corn with a hint of mango), and while not everything tastes as advertised (the sweet corn with mango tastes like Chinese lotus paste), they are still interesting enough to try at least once, and that's clearly their aim.

Without experiencing the dessert-train, it is unfair to judge the Adriano Zumbo Patissier experience solely on the patisserie side. While being nothing more than a titivated version of his Balmain and Manly patisseries, the extended trading hours offered here is a boon for those late night sweet-tooths. The various cakes, tarts, pastries, and macarons (I refuse to call them zumborons) - while not exclusively The Star's - are still as interesting and ambrosial as ever, and the dessert-train concept is sure to be a fascinating and calorific experience. Now where do I buy the tickets?

The good: sweets are as good as ever; longer trading hours compared to the other Zumbo stores; much more efficient taking of orders; can be accessed without going through the casino

The bad: decor is sparingly tacky (e.g., the 'I Heart Zumbo' sign in neon pink); parking at The Star is expensive; no exclusive sweets at the patisserie (but the dessert-train does have)

What the?: only plastic cutlery offered for takeaway

www.adrianozumbo.com

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Music Saturday - Christina Perri - A Thousand Years

2011-10-29T04:42:00.000+11:00

Christina Perri - A Thousand Years

Heart beats fast

Colours and promises

How to be brave

How can I love when I’m afraid to fall

But watching you stand alone

All of my doubt suddenly goes away somehow

One step closer

I have died everyday waiting for you

Darling don’t be afraid I have loved you

For a thousand years

I’ll love you for a thousand more

Time stands still

Beauty in all she is

I will be brave

I will not let anything take away

What’s standing in front of me

Every breath

Every hour has come to this

One step closer

I have died everyday waiting for you

Darling don’t be afraid I have loved you

For a thousand years

I’ll love you for a thousand more

And all along I believed that I would find you

Time has brought your heart to me

I have loved you for a thousand years

I’ll love you for a thousand more

One step closer

I have died everyday waiting for you

Darling don’t be afraid I have loved you

For a thousand years

I’ll love you for a thousand more

And all along I believed I would find you

Time has brought your heart to me

I have loved you for a thousand years

I’ll love you for a thousand more

Music Thursday - Sara Bareilles - Hold My Heart

2011-10-27T04:33:00.002+11:00

Sara Bareilles - Hold My Heart

I never meant to be the one to let you down

If anything, I thought I saw myself going first

I didn't know how to stick around

How to see anybody but me be getting hurt

I keep remembering the summer night

And the conversation breaking up the mood

I didn't want to tell you you were right

Like the season changing, oh, I felt it too

Does anybody know how to hold my heart

How to hold my heart?

'Cause I don't want to let go, let go, let go too soon

I want to tell you so before the sun goes dark

How to hold my heart

'Cause I don't want to let go, let go, let go of you

I'm not the kind to try to tell you lies

But the truth is you've been hiding from it too

I see the end sneaking in behind your eyes

Saying everything no words could ever do

Does anybody know how to hold my heart

How to hold my heart?

'Cause I don't want to let go, let go, let go too soon

I want to tell you so before the sun goes dark

How to hold my heart

'Cause I don't want to let go, let go, let go of you

Is anybody listening?

'Cause I'm crying

Is anybody listening?

Does anybody know how to hold my heart

How to hold my heart?

'Cause I don't want to let go, let go, let go too soon

I want to tell you so before the sun goes dark

How to hold my heart

'Cause I don't want to let go, let go, let go of you

Restaurant Review - Funky Bar (Newtown)

2011-10-25T04:39:00.001+11:00

They say never judge a book by its cover, but if it weren't for the 'cover' being changed, I would never have noticed Funky Bar in Newtown's noshery-heavy King Street. An erstwhile unprepossessing cafe-slash-deli called - what else? - Funky Cafe & Deli, a recent refit which included a swish new modern logo has funked up the place, pardon the pun. Never doubt the power of a makeover, nor a neon-lit logo. Especially in Newtown.

Funky Bar aims to be all things to all people. Well, the bohemian people of trendy Newtown and surrounds anyway. Firstly it's a bar with an impressive list of cocktails. Secondly, it's a restaurant with a bistro-style menu. And thirdly, it's a live music venue for up-and-coming local artists. It balances the three in a small dining room-cum-bar that includes a tiny open kitchen, which mitigates the coolness and the atmosphere of the bar. On the food side, the menu's contents of ubiquitous share plates and mains are yet another indicator of Sydney dining in 2011.

The 'famous' meatballs were certainly spiced and herbed, with a moreish blend of flavours that leans more towards the spicy side, but the unusual texture of the meatballs was puzzling. They were neither soft nor dry and were cooked well, but something odd stopped us from truly enjoying them. They were still very good though and the grilled bread came in handy to polish off the superb Napoli sauce.

Alas, the ubiquitous salt and pepper squid was a disappointment, with a mushy coating that easily flaked off the rings, even though the squid was cooked well enough. The lime chilli and sweet soy mayo were lacking, and as for the lettuce 'basket', it was a piece of lettuce. Whoopee.

The pork belly main was presented beautifully - for a bistro - highlighting the four chunky cubes of pork in a pool of red wine jus, but the pork lacked finesse with some pieces bigger than others. As a result the smaller pieces were more dry and tougher. Crackling was perfectly crispy however, giving an audible and satisfying crunch. The lyonnaise potatoes were tender and flavoursome while the small serving of sweet and sour red cabbage balanced the savouriness of the other components without being too cloying. Fine dish as this is, it is clearly not slow-baked on this occasion since it came out fairly quickly.

So should I still judge this book by its cover? Yes and no. While Funky Bar has been revamped into a hip new drinking destination, a few negatives mitigate its potential as a foodie mainstay on King Street. The incongruous positioning of the kitchen spoils the cool vibe generated by the decor and chandeliers, but it's probably not a deal-breaker after becoming half-soused on Citrus Hubba Bubbas. The food demonstrates skill but also shows a little tardiness, with well executed components let down by sloppiness. However, with an area populated by run-of-the-mill Asian-centric eateries, a bistro-style bar serving better-than-the-average-hotel-standard fare such as this has a chance. Just lower your expectations, enjoy the chick lit calibre experience rather than a Pulitzer Prize winner and everyone's a happy camper.

The good: Napoli sauce on the meatballs packs heat; balance of the pork belly main; chandeliers; reasonable prices; location in the main part of King Street is good; new logo

The bad: salt and pepper squid; execution of the pork belly main; the curious positioning of the open kitchen

What the?: lettuce basket

www.funkybarsydney.com.au

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Music Saturday - Brett Dennen - Ain't No Reason

2011-10-22T07:33:00.002+11:00

Brett Dennen - Ain't No Reason

There ain’t no reason things are this way

Its how they've always been and they intend to stay

I can't explain why we live this way, we do it everyday

Preachers on the podium speaking to saints

Paupers on the sidewalk begging for change

Old ladies laughing from the fire escape, cursing my name

I got a basket full of lemons and they all taste the same

A window and a pigeon with a broken wing

You can spend your whole life working for something

Just to have it taken away

People walk around pushing back their debts

Wearing paychequess like necklaces and bracelets

Talking about nothing, not thinking about death

Every little heartbeat, every little breath

People walk a tightrope on a razor's edge

Carrying their hurt and hatred and weapons

It could be a bomb or a bullet or a pen

Or a thought or a word or a sentence

There ain't no reason things are this way

It's how they've always been and they intend to stay

I don’t know why I say the things I say, but I say them anyway

But love will come set me free

Love will come set me free, I do believe

Love will come set me free, I know it will

Love will come set me free, yes

Prison walls still standing tall

Some things never change at all

Keep on building prisons, gonna fill them all

Keep on building bombs, gonna drop them all

Working your fingers bare to the bone

Breaking ya back, make ya sell your soul

Like a lung that's filled with coal, suffocating slow

The wind blows wild and I may move

The politicians lie and I am not fooled

You don't need no reason or a three-piece suit to argue the truth

The air on my skin and the world under my toes

Slavery stitched into the fabric of my clothes

Chaos and commotion wherever I go, love I try to follow

Love will come set me free

Love will come set me free, I do believe

Love will come set me free, I know it will

Love will come set me free, yes

There ain't no reason things are this way

It’s how they've always been and they intend to stay

I can't explain why we live this way, we do it everyday ....

Music Thursday - Taylor Hicks - Just To Feel That Way

2011-10-20T05:04:00.000+11:00

Taylor Hicks - Just To Feel That Way

I feel you letting go

Holding on, caught in between

Could you risk the pain

Take the chance your heart might bleed

Just to feel that way

Can't keep running in circles

I'm standing right here

Could you rewrite the story

But trade all the tears

Oh it's not too late to feel that way ....

Take a walk on the wire

I won't let you go

We'll follow the streetlights down this jagged road

We'll break it all open finding our way

We might end up broken and wounded

But baby it's worth it for even one day

Just to feel that way

Let this moment unravel and we'll be all right

The world might be gone tomorrow

But we're here tonight

Oh it's not too late just to feel that way ....

Let's walk on the wire

I won't let you go

We'll follow the streetlights down this jagged road

We'll break it all open finding our way

We might end up broken and wounded

But baby it's worth it for even one day

Just to fall apart

I don't care

I'm not going anywhere without you being here by my side

Yeah I just don't feel right

We'll follow the streetlights

Let's walk on the wire

I won't let you go

We'll follow the streetlights down this jagged road

We'll break it all open finding our way

We might end up broken and wounded

But baby it's worth it for even one day

For even one day

Just to feel that way

Restaurant Review - The Abercrombie Hotel (Chippendale) - Come fry with me, let's fry, let's fry away ....

2011-10-18T04:41:00.001+11:00

Talk about taking one for the team.

After word filtered through regarding the four new specials on the menu at the rejuvenated Abercrombie - home of the much maligned* Deep-Fried Golden Gaytime - the frisson implored me to haul my arse down there the very next day to vet their worthiness.

The Abba's American-British-Scottish fast food menu has already made waves amongst the juvenescent sodalities (thanks Mr. Fry) of proximate universities, so it comes as no surprise the new items are in the "If it ain't broke" category. Trying all four would have been extremely hazardous to my well-being, so I lift the death knell a smidge by eschewing the one item that isn't deep-fried, the Pork Banh Mi Roll ($9.50).

Deep. Fried. Pizza. Three words that would give a gaggle of cardiologists conniptions. Surprisingly, deep-fried pizza ($9) is a popular dish available in many chip shops in Scotland. Who would have thought? And who would have thought one would get eight slices for nine bucks? Sure, they are not the biggest slices one's ever seen but it is still a hell of a lot of grease for the buck. But are they any good? YES! At least for the first two slices, after which it becomes stodgy, greasy, and disgustingly filling, especially with the thick gravy provided for dipping. Duh. The best way to describe these is to imagine a potato scallop. Then imagine cheese and pepperoni as the filling. Got it? That's it in a nutshell. If one likes potato scallops (who doesn't?) and pizza (again, who doesn't?), then this should provide some (or a lot of) enjoyment. Just bring a friend to carry the burden. Or two. Eating all eight slices by oneself is akin to cardiac torture. Don't. Do. It.

Chicken Fried Steak ($20) had me confused in a Jessica Simpson "chicken or fish?" moment; is it bloody chicken or is it actually beef? Turns out it's a beef steak schnitzel, but because it resembles fried chicken, the Americans have decided to nonplus the food world with the nomenclature. Thanks. Not. It does taste great though, with the beef tender and the crumb coating crispy and moreish. But what's this green stuff? VEGETABLES? What sort of evil trickery is this? But hang on a mo, there are bits of diced ham or other salted meat to null the collard greens' salubrity! That's the spirit. Not mentioned in the menu description and hidden in the pic above is the Southern American specialty of grits, which tastes like a gritty mix of mashed potatoes and cous cous, and hence the name. There's a distinct lack of good Southern American comfort food in Sydney, so this dish's appearance is welcome, especially as the authenticity and quality is surprisingly great. The only black mark against the authenticity is the red eye gravy, which is supposedly a "thin sauce .... made from the drippings of pan-fried country ham, bacon, or other pork, mixed with black coffee". The gravy we are given is the same thick gravy that comes with the deep-fried pizza. Delicious as the gravy is, I highly doubt it is red eye gravy, and that's a shame.

Forget the Deep-Fried Golden Gaytime people, there's a new kid in town, and his name is the Deep-Fried Twinkie ($8). Don't know what a Twinkie is? Shame. On. You. It's a finger of sponge cake with a creamy filling, and it has my name on it, even without it being deep-fried. The deep-fried version is even tastier (duh), and it tastes almost identical to a Chinese restaurant deep-fried ice cream, without the ice cream of course. It is light and airy (just don't look at the calories), and smothered with a thick gooey marshmallow creme and sprinkled with hundreds and thousands, it looks like a Mardi Gras dessert, but gayer. Needless to say, it tastes wonderful with the different textures and temperatures, but if one is a sugar-phobe, avoid at all costs. Go eat a goji berry instead you party-pooper.

The age at which my life will end if I keep eating at the Abercrombie (I'm currently 37-years-old)

The Abba's four new specials may hit the arteries hard with all the finesse of a sledgehammer, but the kitchen finds inspiration from different parts of the globe in the creations. From the Scottish deep-fried pizza to the Vietnamese banh mi to the soul food of America's south, there is something (heart)-arresting for everyone. Compelling they may not be, but for hunger-busting and wallet-sparing gourmand goodness, it's hard to beat the Abercrombie's current focus, intention, and desire to please. What a team player.

Too late, this is my last view before I collapse and depart the mortal coil.

The good: Deep-Fried Twinkie; new specials are reasons to return; Deep-Fried Golden Gaytime is still on the menu as well

The bad: there is only so much deep-fried pizza one can stomach; red eye gravy authenticity

What the?: all the specials are (still) heart attack-inducing

*But not by me, are you crazy?

www.theabercrombie.com.au

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Music Friday - time to party with Tove Styrke - White Light Moment

2011-10-14T09:23:00.002+11:00

Tove Styrke - White Light Moment

I want a perfect moment

I want to go tonight

I want see the star shoot out of a pitch black sky

I want to start a fire

I wanna burn tonight

I want a world in motion

I want to see the signs race through my mind

All I want now is a white light moment

Come with me tonight

Monochrome city the colour's fading

Watching the world in your eyes

Take me around the planet

Take me through space and time

Paint me a perfect picture and make sure you cross the line

Don't let the colours scare you

It's just a state of mind

We'll stay out of sight

All I want now is a white light moment

Come with me tonight

Monochrome city the colour's fading

Watching the world in your eyes

I want a perfect moment

I want to go tonight

I want see the star shoot out of a pitch black sky

I want a world in motion

I want to see the signs race through my mind

All I want now is a white light moment

Come with me tonight

Monochrome city the colour's fading

Watching the world in your eyes

Music Wednesday - time to reflect with David Choi - Love

2011-10-12T05:05:00.002+11:00

David Choi - Love

What's going on?

I still see the frown in your face

It's so out of place

All you can remember

Is how you felt the other day

You let the small things in your way

But you know that will just keep you down

Loosen your grip, and drop it on the ground

Love, love, love, love, love

It's all you need

It's everything

To keep it all together

Love, love, love, love, love

It perseveres

It always steers

To keep you in the right direction

Left here undiscovered

I want to share this gold

With people of the world

Abundantly filling

Every single heart

And here's the best part

You know that love never brings you down

Let it all out, and shout it all around that

Love, love, love, love, love

It's all you need

It's everything

To keep it all together

Love, love, love, love, love

It perseveres

It always steers

To keep you in the right direction

Let me tell you something here today

Living life here on the rough terrain

You can lose hope, you can get lost

But you are not that far apart from

Love, love, love, love, love

It's all you need

It's everything

To keep it all together

Love, love, love, love, love

It perseveres

It always steers

To keep you in the right direction

Golden Chopsticks (Athens)

2011-10-11T04:45:00.000+11:00

When in Greece, do as the Greeks do. Or is that Rome and Romans? I can't remember. Whoever it refers to, I gave it my best shot. But. I. Failed. Miserably. Despite my ~~best~~ efforts.

After two days in central Athens eating nothing but souvlakis, gyros, and Greek salads, I was suffering withdrawals, and my palate was suffering. Pining for comestibles of the non-Greek variety, I turned futilely to my first choice: aimless wandering. When that failed, I turned to trusty Tripadvisor to solve my culinary woes. Among the neverending listings of Greek, Italian, and Mediterranean nosheries, I finally found something suitably close to my heart: Chinese. Sort of.

Golden Chopsticks - situated near Syntagma Square in central Athens - is as retro as it gets, with a name as 80s as puffy shirts, big hair, and Madonna combined. Would any Asian eatery worth its MSG be so tackily named in 2011 Australia? Maybe in bucolic parts of Australia (Moe and Great China Inn, I'm looking at you), but surely not in metropolitan Sydney. The name Golden Chopsticks even brought back memories of those God-awful Diamond Chopsticks Chinese restaurant ads on Aussie TV in the 80s. Cringe. And the cliches don't stop there, as Golden Chopsticks also uses the cliched Shanghai typeface, serves a complimentary bowl of prawn crackers pre-meal, and a foil-wrapped fortune cookie for afters. It made me feel like I was ten-years-old again. Hooray for nostalgia!

Not that Golden Chopsticks is a simple Chinese restaurant either. Aiming to kill three culinary birds with one stone, it is a blend of Chinese, Thai, and Indian cuisines. Hopefully not all in the one dish though.

The proprietor of Golden Chopsticks is Greek (and one waiter is also Greek-Aussie), but all the chefs visible in the open kitchen are from the subcontinent. Authentic Chinese and Thai food? Doesn't look promising. Despite the Indian chefs, we order dishes from the Chinese and Thai parts of the menu. And it's a huge menu at that, not surprising given the merger of three cuisines, with 106 dishes on offer.

The san suian spring rolls (€4.30) are in fact Thai spring rolls, and they ain't half bad. Deep-fried well and containing a good amount of mince and vermicelli, they are better than some I've eaten in Sydney, so that's a shock. The ubiquitous sweet and sour pork (€8.10) comes with the standard chopped onions, green and red capsicums, and pineapple chunks, but having had the dish at London's branch of global Chinese fine dining chain Hakkasan, it is not an easy dish to reinvent. There is a slight difference though with the pork, where plain fillets are used rather than the battered-then-deep-fried kind, so the loss in crunchy texture is quite noticeable. The sauce is also generic, being more sweet than actually sour. Still an agreeable dish even with the amount of pork being swamped by the excipients. The chicken Thai fried rice (€4.90) turns out to be the least successful, due mainly to its lack of Thai-ness. Thai fried rices are generally super-fragrant and a little sweet, but this one resembles ordinary Chinese fried rice just too much with no personality, and with the chicken fillets barely making an appearance, it seems a total rip-off. There is a surprising redeeming element though, with fresh diced carrots being used instead of the frozen kind, giving it a snappy crunch.

The savouries certainly surprised, so the desserts might be okay too, and they are. The fried ice cream (€4.50) is massive, and for the first time in my life, I fail to finish it. It is also the first time I've had one where the ice cream isn't vanilla (it's chocolate here), and now I know why vanilla is used almost exclusively: because it's a better compliment to the golden fried exterior. The chocolate ice cream isn't as suited, and that also probably contributed to my non-finishing of one of my favourite desserts. The fried banana with ice cream (€4) is as expected: banana fritters, and it's also quite reasonable. Hot, crunchy, and with a suitably mushy sweet banana innard, it satisfies.

Golden Chopsticks may not be the pinnacle of Asian cuisine, but being one of the few eateries in Athens which serves Chinese, Thai, and Indian food, it serves its purpose adequately. It may be retro everything, from the name to the schlocky decor to the food's dubious authenticity, and it may not be as popular with locals as it is with tourists, but as a respite to the Mediterranean food monopoly, it is more than welcome. The most important element - the food - is above average and good enough in most cases, especially for those palate-weary and undemanding travellers such as yours truly. And for that we have to thank Zeus. Or Jupiter.

The good: Asian food in Athens; inexpensive; food quality is surprisingly acceptable and in some cases above average; friendly and efficient service; huge menu

The bad: the name; fried ice cream using chocolate ice cream; parsimony of proteins in the sweet and sour pork and chicken Thai fried rice; no toilets; not the easiest place to find

What the?: Indian chefs

www.golden-chopsticks.gr

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Music Friday - time to party with Beyonce - Halo

2011-10-07T17:47:00.002+11:00

Beyonce - Halo

Remember those walls I built?

Well, baby they're tumbling down

And they didn't even put up a fight

They didn't even make up a sound

I found a way to let you in

But I never really had a doubt

Standing in the light of your halo

I got my angel now

It's like I've been awakened

Every rule I had you breaking

It's the risk that I'm taking

I ain't never gonna shut you out

Everywhere I'm looking now

I'm surrounded by your embrace

Baby I can see your halo

You know you're my saving grace

You're everything I need and more

It's written all over your face

Baby I can feel your halo

Pray it won't fade away

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

Hit me like a ray of sun

Burning through my darkest night

You're the only one that I want

Think I'm addicted to your light

I swore I'd never fall again

But this don't even feel like falling

Gravity can't forget

To pull me back to the ground again

Feels like I've been awakened

Every rule I had you breaking

The risk that I'm taking

I'm never gonna shut you out

Everywhere I'm looking now

I'm surrounded by your embrace

Baby I can see your halo

You know you're my saving grace

You're everything I need and more

It's written all over your face

Baby I can feel your halo

Pray it won't fade away

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

Halo, halo

Everywhere I'm looking now

I'm surrounded by your embrace

Baby I can see your halo

You know you're my saving grace

You're everything I need and more

It's written all over your face

Baby I can feel your halo

Pray it won't fade away

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

I can feel your halo halo halo

I can see your halo halo halo

Music Wednesday - time to reflect with Bruno Mars - Count On Me

2011-10-05T04:49:00.002+11:00

Bruno Mars - Count On Me

If you ever find yourself stuck in the middle of the sea

I'll sail the world to find you

If you ever find yourself lost in the dark and you can't see

I'll be the light to guide you

Find out what we're made of

What we are called to help our friends in need

You can count on me like one, two, three

I'll be there and I know when I need it

I can count on you like four, three, two

And you'll be there 'cause that's what friends

Are supposed to do, oh yeah, ooh, ooh

If you toss and you turn and you just can't fall asleep

I'll sing a song beside you

And if you ever forget how much you really mean to me

Everyday I will remind you

Find out what we're made of

What we are called to help our friends in need

You can count on me like one, two, three

I'll be there and I know when I need it

I can count on you like four, three, two

And you'll be there 'cause that's what friends

Are supposed to do, oh yeah, ooh, ooh, yeah, yeah

You'll always have my shoulder when you cry

I'll never let go, never say goodbye

You can count on me like one, two, three

I'll be there and I know when I need it

I can count on you like four, three, two

And you'll be there 'cause that's what friends

Are supposed to do, oh yeah, ooh, ooh

You can count on me 'cause I can count on you